Project 0015 – Mona Mae Cosmetics (Mary Kay(TM) on Steroids)

Twitt


Project 0015 – Mona Mae Cosmetics (Mary Kay(TM)  on Steroids)

             Mona Mae is on a mission! Ever since she first laid eyes on one of those pastel pink sales trophies that her rivals use, she’s had one goal in mind – building her own cosmetic sales empire! Look out soccer moms – Mona Mae is coming your way and her goal is to sell cosmetics to you any way she can. She has to. Mona’s Caddy cost a bundle and she has to sell about three grand a month to keep the repo man out of the garage at night.
Figure 1
Figure 1 – Mona Mae Cosmetics

            Mona Mae isn’t shy. You can tell by the color of that Escalade that she wants you to know she’s coming. And if she can’t sell you some product: she wants you to sell some for her. Mona has an arsenal of cosmetics in that rolling product demo making her sales pitch hard to resist. With a full vanity and lineup of product in the back she can quickly show you how good you’ll look with the right makeup. Mona Mae’s cosmetics of course!

            Inside the cab, dual video monitors outline her company’s product line and benefits. Regular clients get the royal treatment with a glass of Chablis while being shown a presentation of the latest Mona Mae cosmetics. A telescoping console laptop keeps track of sales and inventory in real time too. You may never see Mona Mae’s Cadillac in your town but you can imagine her in this project pulling up to the front of some skyscraper and loading up a wealthy client for a demo tour.

            This model starts out as one of the great Uptown Series model kits from Revell (Cadillac® EscaladeTM EXTTM model #85-2092) and with a bit of costume jewelry, special paint, decals and metal foil this pastel pumpkin turns into an in-your-face rolling sales platform for Mona Mae Cosmetics. You can imagine Mona Mae as a pushy salesperson version of “Gladys” from the movie “Over the Hedge.” Mona Mae is kind of Mary Kay on Steroids character. She wants to be noticed and like taking center stage. That’s because her well-heeled clients like the same thing. When she rolls up to the high rise buildings uptown it becomes a real talking piece when people look out the windows to see them trying on the latest colors using the full size vanity in the back of the Escalade. After a few trials it’s in for a ride to review the latest product line on the dual video screens in the back seat with a glass of Chablis for full measure.
Figure 2
Figure 2 – Black Light Display

 

Step-by-Step

 

            For the modeler, this project makes use of fluorescent color and special lighting effects that you can use and modify in a number of ways to suit your needs. There are also tips showing how to remove chrome plating from parts in order to paint or re-chrome them and a method for placing decals over raised surfaces. This project also demonstrates the use and application of tinted paints.
 
            This modeling project shows that you can make a spectacular model with common materials found in the home like Rustoleum® Brand spray paints and generic five minute epoxy adhesive. Additional enhancements like custom decals are easy to make using your PC and some decal paper from your local hobby shop. Remember, a little imagination goes a long way!

 

 

Step 1 – Preparation

 

            The first thing to do is familiarize yourself with the kits instructions and then assemble the parts that will painted with the fluorescent color coat. Wash them in some mild detergent then dry them off. Give them all a coat of light primer and then a light sanding using 600 to 800 grit dry sandpaper and another rinse using a soft sponge and a toothbrush to remove debris from  the panels lines. 
Figure 3
Figure 3

           

           

            Spray the inside of the vehicle with the fluorescent paint starting with light coats until the surfaces have an even color coat.Figure 4
Figure 4
 

                    Lightly sand the overspray from the exterior surfaces.
Figure 5
Figure 5

             Use a tack cloth on the exterior surfaces to remove dust.
Figure 6
Figure 6

             Set the body on a wire frame or suitable stand to and spray the exterior parts with light coats of paint.
Figure 7
Figure 7

                       Do the same thing with the the hinged parts and coat the body and parts with the same number of coats using the same amount of paint to maintain a color match.
Figure 8
Figure 8

                       After a couple of color coats the body and hinged parts will start to take on the hue you are after.
Figure 9
Figure 9

                        After six coats this body has received a rich run-free color coat. This paint is flat and you have to be careful not to get it dirty with dust or other contaminants that are on your hands. Let it dry for a few hours and then spray it with some clear coat. Decals won’t stick to flat paint well and the clear coat will permit handling without contamination of the body paint. Set it aside to dry at least overnight.
Figure 10
Figure 10

                In the meantime we can turn our attention to the kits other parts. Assemble the front seat halves by using some cryanoacrylate glue or model cement on the locating tabs and along the outer ridges.
Figure 11
Figure 11

                       Use some adhesive on the tabs and place the lower dash panel onto the center console.
Figure 12
Figure 12

                        The steering column on the model comes completely chromed. I didn’t want that affect so I removed the chrome from the part by immersing it into some common household bleach.
Figure 13
Figure 13

                       You can see the bleach acting upon the plated surfaces as the part begins to appear gray when the base material is exposed.
Figure 14
Figure 14

                       Here is the part completely striped of chrome plating. It can now be rinsed off and dried to accept other finishing techniques.
Figure 15
Figure 15

                        Arrange the interior parts on a board with plenty of room between them to get at various angles with the spray paint. Spray the parts with a standard interior flat color in successive coats just like the body parts.
Figure 16
Figure 16

                        Finish off the steering wheel with a touch of walnut brown, button paint and then use a dry brush technique to paint the Cadillac emblem on the center. Dry brush makes use of a fine brush with very paint on it. Feather the bristles across a slightly raised surface to make them stand out.
Figure 17
Figure 17

                        Paint the appropriate surfaces of the headlight reflectors with some orange paint to add the turn signal indicators.
Figure 18
Figure 18

                                    The brake assemblies take a little work but they really look great if you take a little time to dress them up. Begin by painting the caliper bodies red.
Figure 19
Figure 19

                       Next brush a thin coat of silver onto the rotors

Figure 20
Figure 20

            Finally, paint the caliper covers gold to make them stand out behind the wheel.
Figure 21
Figure 21

                        The tail light lenses that come with this model are molded in clear plastic so you will have to tint them to get a natural look. First cut  out a couple pieces of masking tape using a good quality tape in the shape of the clear backup lens areas and cover those spots with the tape on the outside of the parts.
Figure 22
Figure 22

                        Mix up an appropriate tint from some clear paint and some red color (from the same type of paint to assure compatibility) at a ratio of about 10 parts clear to 1 part color. Mount the parts on some putty and brush paint them leaving no brush marks if possible.
Figure 23
Figure 23

                        Use a small brush and some silver to paint the tail light insets on the body. This will add some reflectivity to the tinted lens.
Figure 24
Figure 24

                        Use a small paint brush to paint the shipping hooks flat black in the front of the vehicle.
Figure 25
Figure 25

                        Use some masking tape to mask off the louvered area behind the hood.
Figure 26
Figure 26

                        Thin the flat black paint out a bit to help the paint flow and hand brush the louvered area.
Figure 27
Figure 27

                      Place the mirror surfaces into the mirror bodies.
Figure 28
Figure 28

                      Use a permanent black marker (like a Sharpie) to color the window trim. 
Figure 29
Figure 29

                       Secure the mirrors onto the locating tabs on the doors with a little cryanoacrylate adhesive.
Figure 30
Figure 30

                        Glue the chrome speakers and the door panels onto the interior of the door using the locating tabs.
Figure 31
Figure 31

                        Insert the hood into position.
Figure 32
Figure 32

            Use the fasteners provided to mount the engine compartment. I didn’t finish off the engine or the underbody on this project although they look surprisingly good with plenty of detail when finished.
Figure 33
Figure 33

                       Thin out some flat black paint to use on the grill recesses.
Figure 34
Figure 34

                       Use a small paint brush and paint the recesses.
Figure 35
Figure 35

                        Now it’s time for some decals. Get some tepid water in a bowl and mix in a few drops of ammonia. Have some pads and Q-tips available to soak up any excess water and smooth out the decals after application.
Figure 36
Figure 36

             I elected to use the body side decals provided with this kits as they make a good compliment to the fluorescent pink paint. Get them all gathered up in place so they are ready when you need them.
Figure 37
Figure 37

                       Here is the first body panel decal installed on the rear door and quarter panel. Continue adding the body side decals as described in the kit’s instructions.
Figure 38
Figure 38

             Measure the distance between the door emblem to another feature on the tailgate.
Figure 39
Figure 39

             Transfer the location to the tailgate decal and lightly mark the center. Use a paper punch that is appropriately sized for the diameter of the raised feture on the model and carefully cut out the relief for it. Save the piece that was removed for later use.
Figure 40
Figure 40

             Use a sharp bladed hobby knife and carefully cut some 1mm toward the center of the hole on the outside of the punched out section. This allows the decal material to accommodate the rise from the tailgate surface.
Figure 41
Figure 41

             Orient the removed decal piece in the same way that it was cut to match any irregularity in the punch cut and install it on the tailgate. After it has dried into place apply the rest of the tailgate decal around it and use the Q-tips to smooth out any wrinkles before it dries.
Figure 42
Figure 42

             Add the Cadillac emblem over the top of this decal to finish it off.
Figure 43
Figure 43

             Complete the assembly with any other decals you wish to use.
Figure 44
Figure 44

             Placing the rest of the decals to identify the Mona Mae Cosmetics vehicle is very similar to first on decals but requires a little more patience and an easy touch to ensure that there is no damage to the underlying decal surface. Add the rest of the body decals as desired and be sure to smooth out any bubbles or wrinkles.
Figure 45
Figure 45

             Mix up some 5 minute epoxy and glue the grill into place.
Figure 46
Figure 46

             Using the epoxy adhesive glue the taillight lenses into place using the locating tabs.
Figure 47
Figure 47

             Adhere the rear pickup box liner piece to the inside of the tailgate with cryanoacrylate.
Figure 47b
Figure 47b

             Install the doors and tailgate per the kit’s instructions and put the body shell back on the wire rack for a clear coat to seal the decals into place. As always start with light tack coats and build up to a few wet coats.
Figure 48
Figure 48

             Mix up some  epoxy and assemble the headlight bezels and lens covers.
Figure 48b
Figure 48b

             Use some white glue or place decals from the kit onto the rear passenger video monitors then glue them into the roof window assembly panel in the slots provided.
Figure 49
Figure 49

             Paint the visor nacelles the same color as the interior and glue the review mirror into place with some epoxy.
Figure 50
Figure 50

             Use some epoxy glue to assemble the windshield by inserting the locating tabs at the base into the slot provided then glue along the top edge and locate the small tabs into the corresponding holes in the windshield.
Figure 51
Figure 51

             Place a decal or emblem (using some white glue) on dashboard video monitor.
Figure 52
Figure 52

             Put some epoxy glue on the posts that locate the roof window panel and glue it into place on the locating tabs.
Figure 53
Figure 53

             This rear view of the video monitors shows what the rear passenger would see.
Figure 54
Figure 54

             Seat the window panel and apply some light pressure until the epoxy sets up. Don’t squeeze too much or the glue will ooze out onto the paint.
Figure 55
Figure 55

             Assemble the two halves of the steering column assembly with some cryanoacrylate glue.
Figure 56
Figure 56

             Use the cryanoacrylate glue to fasten the steering column to the dashboard assembly.

Figure 57

            Install the engine compartment with the three screws from the kit.           
Figure 58
Figure 58
 

          Install the door hinge retainer with the two screws from the kit.
Figure 59
Figure 59

             Open the front doors slightly and slide the dashboard into place on the locating tab then use the fastener to secure it into place.
Figure 60
Figure 60

             Apply some cryanoacrylate glue to the locating tab and slot to assemble the exhaust tip to the chassis.
Figure 61
Figure 61

             Examine the brake assemblies for corresponding posthole sizes and use some cryanoacrylate glue to fasten these to the chassis.

Figure 62
Figure 62

Assemble the tires to the wheels.
Figure 63
Figure 63

             Push the axles into two of the wheel hubs.
Figure 64
Figure 64

 
Slide the axles though the chassis holes and press the other tires onto the axles on the other side.
 Figure 65
Figure 65

           


Use a drill or rotary tool to bore a small hole into the center console to accept the telescoping mast for the onboard laptop.
Figure 66
Figure 66

            Glue the rear passenger compartment side walls to the main tab using the locating tabs and some cryanoacrylate glue.
Figure 67
Figure 67

             Locate the tabs on the bottom of the front seats and glue them in place with the super glue.
Figure 68
Figure 68

             I borrowed this great looking laptop piece from Revell’s Impala Police Car model Kit #85-1928 to put on the console so that Moan Mae could keep track of her business in real time Glue the telescoping laptop into place.
Figure 69
Figure 69

          Place some cryanoacrylate glue on the locating tabs and place the whole passenger compartment tub onto the chassis. Rock this assembly until seated.
Figure 70
Figure 70

             Using the chrome removing technique described above for the steering wheel, put some bleach into a medicine dropper and flood the floor of the amplifier base with it.
Figure 71
Figure 71

             Use a toothpick to channel the bleach in-between the narrow center slot and let the bleach work its magic to remove the chrome plating.
Figure 72
Figure 72

             Paint the bottom of the base flat black to accentuate the chrome amplifier fins and add some color to the fin area also.
Figure 73
Figure 73

             After the paint has had a chance to set wipe the excess off of the fins with your finger.
Figure 74
Figure 74

             Cut a piece of silver foil just a bit larger than the opening on the rear video monitor panel and remove the backing paper.
Figure 75
Figure 75

             Place the foil with the adhesive side down on the video panel and smooth it out from the center toward the edges.
Figure 76
Figure 76

             Use the broad end of a toothpick to push the foil into the corners and smooth out the foil.
Figure 77
Figure 77

             Use a sharp bladed hobby knife to trim the excess at the corners.
Figure 78
Figure 78

             Peel off the excess foil.
Figure 79
Figure 79

             Install the hinge retainer to keep the video screen in place. Be sure not to get glue on the screen bar so it will move freely.
Figure 79b
Figure 79b

             Sand the chrome off the top of the speaker panel.

Figure 80
Figure 80

            Use some cryanoacrylate glue to adhere the speaker panel to the top of the trunk insert assembly and then glue the whole assembly into the body shell per the kit’s instructions.
Figure 81
Figure 81

             Slide the front of the chassis into the body shell and seat the whole assembly onto the locating posts. Use the four (longer) screws supplied with the kit to fasten the chassis to the body shell.
Figure 82
Figure 82

             Here comes Mona Mae in full regalia to make you look good whether you want to or not.
Figure 83
Figure 83

             Under the city’s sodium vapor lamps on a midnight run to exclusive clients she glides with a glow plying her trade!
Figure 84
Figure 84

 

 

 

List of Project Items

 

Revell® brand Uptown Series Cadillac® EscaladeTM EXTTM model #85-2092

Hobby knife with #11 chisel-type blade

Phillips head small (2.4mm) screwdriver

Bare Metal Foil – Chrome

Boyd’s High Gloss Clear Enamel #52720

Wet-Dry sandpaper (assorted grits 400-600)

Blu-Tack® adhesive

Small paint brush suitable for enamels

Rustoleum® Brand Fluorescent Pink Enamel Spray

Rustoleum ® Brand Crystal Clear Enamel Spray

Plastic Primer Spray Paint

Five-minute epoxy

Tamiya® Model Tape 6mm

Testor’s Custom Decal System #9198

Testor’s Brand enamel paints

 

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