Project 0031 – 2011 Buick GSX

Project 0031 – 2011 Buick GSX

2011 Buick GSX

            The main theme of this project is known as “kit bashing” where two or more kits are merged together to form a new one. In this project a Monogram 1970 Buick GSX^TM and an AMT^TM concept Camaro^TM are morphed into a new style.

            There are several other processes and techniques of interest to the modeler used in this project. Scratch building the rear deck spoiler and rear taillights and trim, decal fabrication, filling and modifying body features and the removal of chrome plating and the use of chrome Alclad^TM are demonstrated here. The model is also produced as a “slammer.” A slammer kit is one where the doors, hood or trunk do not open and the windows are opaque. The reason for this is that the exterior styling is the only emphasis item for this project. This is an older model kit and although they are not on store shelves you can find them at garage sales or on eBay style venues. Occasionally some are re-released too.

The Project Overview:

            To begin this project you start by studying the kits that you want to merge to understand the fit, features and geometries of the parts that will be used. The next item is to decide the best method to make that happen. In this project some parts were resin cast from original ones, scratch built from plastic sheet or sticks or filled and sanded to produce the desired result.  

 

Figure 1 – The original GSX muscle car

 

The Project Steps:

 

            I determined that the main components of the old kit that needed to be used on the new body style were the grill, hood and tachometer. Gather these parts from the donor kit and either use them directly or make a resin casting of them (or the portions that you want to use). I only needed the center section of the grill for this kit bash but I needed the entire hood and tachometer.

Figure 2

            Make a mold base for your resin casting that is big enough for your parts. I used some Lego blocks and painters tape to keep the resin from oozing out through the bricks. Place your parts in the mold and mix up some mold making material (usually RTV silicone) according to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Figure 3

            The grill section was added on here using some clay to keep the parts separate. Let the mold solidify and cool. I find that overnight is best.

Figure 4

            I used a little clay underneath the hood to keep that cavity from filling in with silicone and then cut out an opening for the part to be removed.           

Figure 5

            When your mold is ready, mix up some casting resin and pour it into the mold. It’s shown here just starting to solidify.

Figure 6

            Remove the part from the mold after is has cooled off. If you take it out too soon it may bend or warp since it has not hardened yet.

Figure 7

             I actually had to cut out a little “extra” section on the outside edges of the mold to provide a little extra material for the wider hood of the new body style. This method of parts reproduction can make some exact duplicates of your original parts or you can make some modifications like these for special circumstances.

Figure 8

            Trace around the outside of the original hood to provide a shape for the new part.

Figure 9

             You can get pretty close to the desired shape with a grinder or file to cut down on the amount of sanding needed to finish the part.
 

Figure 10

            Mark the area on the new body where the grill section from the resin casting will go and cut it out using some diagonal cutters and a small file or a rotary grinding tool.

Figure 11

             Here is the resin casting of the grill section. Use a saw to cut out the center section.
 

Figure 12

            After the rough section of grill is cut out use a grinder to remove most of the excess then hand file it into final shape. Make sure the part doesn’t interfere with others like the hood. I had to cut out a V-notch in the back to provide clearance.

Figure 13

            Test fit the grill section into the opening to tweak its position. Remove it from the opening for now to work on the rest of the body.

Figure 14

            I used a rough file to begin removing the “Camaro” features like the rear ducktail spoiler and some of the body features. This is followed up with progressively smaller grit sand papers to finish the area.

Figure 15

             The areas with the marks were identified to fill them into to add further refinements to differentiate the Buick version from the Camaro donor body much the same as a real production vehicle would be transformed into another make.

 
Figure 16

            Place some tape on the inside of the taillights to keep filler from sagging down inside the body.

Figure 17

            Mix up the filler (I like Bondo^TM plastic filler) or use some putty to fill in the areas you want to modify.

Figure 18

            Here is a shot of the front sections that are being filled in.

Figure 19

            The key to working with body fillers is to remove the excess filler BEFORE

it gets too hard. After about five minutes the fillers will set and be ready to start rough shaping. I use a ‘cheese grater’ Shurform^TM type plane for large areas and a sharp hobby knife for smaller ones. Be careful not to gouge the base model or you’ll have to clean that up too.

Figure 20

            Use progressively smaller grit sandpapers to smooth the filled areas into the proper contours and finish. Remove the cowl section from the wiper panel to match the new hood.  Fill this in also to make the shapes match.

Figure 21

            Brush on a thinned (use acetate) body putty to the filled areas to provide a smooth fill to finish these changes off. After sanding with 600 to 1000 grit sandpaper these areas will blend in perfectly with the body.

Figure 22

            Glue in the hood using some super glue and stop strips on the underside.

Figure 23

            Use some epoxy to finish the placement and secure the hood firmly.

Figure 24

            After a few coats of primer and sanding the body will be ready to fit the additional parts into and final finishing.

Figure 26

            Alclad^TM is a two-part process that adds a pretty good looking chrome finish to a plastic part. First paint the sections with gloss black primer that you want “chromed” and then paint with several coats of the Alclad^TM finish. After it is dry set the grill section where you want it to stay in the body and glue it in place with some epoxy glue on the back side.

Figure 27

            For the taillight trim I used some Evergreen^TM styrene .030” quarter round strips. Glue the strips into place and then carefully trim off the excess. Use some putty and sand the edges of the strips to smooth out the junctions.

Figure 28

            I made the taillight lenses out of .040” sheet stock and sanded them into final shape by test fitting them until they were correct.

Figure 29

            To give the taillights a realistic appearance, wrap them with some smooth foil and paint them with a clear red paint.

Figure 30

            To get the “slammer” look, apply painter’s tape to the outside of the windows to prevent any overspray and then spray paint the insides of the window glass with the color of your choice. I used sliver for this project but you can use black, red, blue or any color you like.

Figure 31

            The wheels were stripped of their chrome finish by soaking them in bleach and then painted flat black. I then painted the portions of the wheels around the spokes flat white.

Figure 32

After the white base dries paint those areas with the matching body color for a coordinated effect.

Figure 33

            Even though this is a slammer kit and the hood doesn’t open you can still see the bottom of the engine from underneath the car. Paint and detail it so that it will appear normal.

Figure 34

            Spray the chassis components flat black and let them dry before assembling them.
 

Figure 35

            The original GSX had a great looking rear spoiler but its shape doesn’t fit the contours of the rear deck on the new Camaro like the hood does up front. Trace the shape of the rear deck onto a piece of flat styrene stock and cut it out with a pair of scissors. Give it a final shape by bending the edges down and matching the edges to the rear fenders. Add a couple pylons made from rectangular stock or sprue material underneath for mounting the spoiler to the trunk and finally a little piece on the underside in the middle to put the center mount stop light. Use some super glue and center it into place on the rear deck lid.

Figure 36

            Cover up the grill with some good quality masking tape and paint your model in the colors of the original muscle machine. Then add the side mirrors and glue in the windows. Add the decals to the body and spray it with a final gloss coat to protect the markings and finish.

Figure 39

            Assemble the model according to the instructions by installing the undercarriage and adding the rear roll pan. Remove the tape from the grill and you’ve got yourself a creation that Detroit can only dream about these days.

Figure 40