F-82G Twin Mustang 1:72 Scale Monogram Model Kit #85-5257 Review
Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20150623*
F-82G Twin Mustang 1:72 Scale Monogram Model Kit #85-5257 Review
Review and Photos by Kevin Lawton 
 The North American F-82 was initially designed as a very long distance escort fighter during World War II, however the first production units were not completed until after the end of the war. It was designed to escort B-29 raids into Japan where the raids would exceed 2,000 miles (outside the range of P-38s or P-51s). With the outbreak of the Korean War in June 1950, the F-82 was pressed into operational combat duty. The F-82 was used primarily as an all-weather interceptor and intruder. However one of the Twin Mustang’s claim-to-fame was it was the first US aircraft to shoot down enemy aircraft during the Korean War. This occurred on June 27th, 1950 by Lt. William G. “Skeeter” Hudson, with his radar operator Lt. Carl Fraiser. In fact, three North Korean planes were shot down that day, all by F-82s. It was the last piston engine fighter designed for the US Air Force.
For the Modeler: This review covers the reissued Twin Mustang F-82G 1:72 Scale Monogram Model Kit #85-5257.  It is a skill level 2 plastic kit for intermediate modelers molded in light gray with clear pieces totaling 71 parts.  It includes waterslide decals for 
two aircraft. For a 1973 mold there was surprisingly little flash although there are mold seam lines on most parts. The clear parts were also nice & clear. As with any older Revell kit panel lines are raised and cockpit detail is rather sparse. However, after installing the pilots in the cockpits very little detail would be viewable anyway. This kit features opening canopies, a choice of open or closed gun compartments, movable props, optional rockets, optional bombs, fuel tanks, a radar pod, two figures and decals. Overall dimensions: Length: 6-5/8″ and a Wingspan of: 8-7/16″.
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Covered in this Review:Â If you want to perfect your build; basic construction; preparing parts for better finishing; extensive paint and finishing information; adhesive selections and applications; cockpit construction and detailing; alternate assembly sequence for fit and finish; complete canopy masking instructions; decal preparation and application; window fog prevention; complete pilot figure painting; identification and repair of seams and ejector pin marks; correctly detailing the tail sections; making the canopy glass look real using Future floor wax; using floor polish for decal application; identification of the copyright script; version considerations; identifying and removing pin marks for fit; filling and repairing gaps and seams; landing gear and bay door detailing; decal selection, masking instructions; formation light details; exhaust coloration; fuel tank and ordinance detailing; preparation, and application; instruction clarifications; are all fully examined in this pictorial 19 page, full-color Step-by-Step review.
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I’m also building the same model with the same paint scheme. Right now I’m having a little problem with the landing gear doors getting them in the right place.
My other problem is keeping the landing gears from collapsing. There is no drag link to the gear to support the strut.
Any ideas?
jerry
If you’re is referring to the small landing gear doors that attach to the landing gear itself they are specific to each side (part #’s 37 & 38) One each there are two pins one pin goes into a small sole in the landing gear leg itself while the other (lower) pin goes into the wheel hub hole (axle hole if you will). The larger inner gear doors (parts 30 & 30A) that attach to the fuselage are kind of tough. There is a small ledge on each side of the landing gear well (closest to the fuselage center line). I had to use super glue (cyanoacrylate) and to get them to stay.
The landing gear legs (parts 15 & 16) are definitely ‘handed’ (port & starboard). The oleo scissors should point forward – towards the nose of the plane.
As far as the landing gear itself there are small pins at right angles to the landing gear itself where it ‘plugs’ into the fuselage. these pins should fit into small slots. Again I used superglue here and let things dry overnight before setting the plane on its landing gear.
My suggested order of installation is inner gear doors first (those that attach to the fuselage), then the completed landing gear. I installed the wheels, then the small gear door to the landing gear leg, and then installed that completed unit into the fuselage.